Mono, 4-channel or 5-channel?
A mono amplifier powers subwoofers and is built to deliver lots of current into low-impedance loads. A 4-channel amp powers front and rear speakers, or front speakers plus a small sub with two channels bridged. A 5-channel amp does both jobs in one chassis, with four channels for speakers and one for the sub, which saves space and simplifies wiring.
We match amp power to your speakers’ RMS ratings and impedance, so everything has headroom without being pushed past its limits. Not sure what you need? We’ll look at your current speakers and recommend an amp that fits them and your space.
- Mono amps for one or more subwoofers
- 4-channel amps for door and dash speakers
- 5-channel amps for a full system in one chassis
- Compact amps that hide under seats
- Amps with built-in DSP for precise tuning
The gain is not a volume knob
The gain control matches the amplifier to the signal coming from your radio. Set it too high and the amp clips, sending a distorted signal that overheats voice coils and blows speakers, often before it even sounds loud.
We set gains with test tones and a meter or oscilloscope, then fine-tune by ear. If your factory radio doesn’t have RCA outputs, we use the amp’s speaker-level inputs or a quality line-output converter to get a clean signal. We work with brands like AudioControl and PAC for those conversions.
A correctly set gain keeps the amp cooler and your speakers alive longer. Gains cranked too high are one of the most common causes of blown speakers.
Wiring, fusing and the Big 3
We use oxygen-free copper (OFC) power and ground wire sized for your amplifier’s current draw. Copper-clad aluminum (CCA) wire has higher resistance, so it runs hotter and delivers less power. Every power run gets a fuse within about 18 inches of the battery, and we protect the wire with grommets wherever it passes through metal. Signal cables run down the opposite side of the car from the power wire to keep noise out.
Bigger systems need a healthy charging system. The Big 3 upgrade replaces or supplements three key factory cables to cut voltage drop. We’ll also tell you when an AGM battery or high-output alternator makes sense.
- Alternator positive to battery positive
- Battery negative to chassis
- Engine block to chassis ground
Keeping amps cool in Arizona
Trunks and under-seat spaces bake in a Phoenix summer, and amplifiers add heat of their own. When an amp overheats, it shuts down into protect mode, usually in the middle of your favorite song.
We mount amps where air can move around them, never buried under carpet or stuffed against a hot panel, and choose efficient Class D designs for bigger power. A good install also protects your battery: the amp turns on only with the radio, and we check for parasitic draw before the car leaves the bay.
Our shop on Camelback Road is an easy drive from Maryvale, I-17 and Loop 101. Call or stop by for a free quote.
Brands we work with for amplifiers
Brands with a red dot are on our Phoenix showroom shelves right now. Ask us about availability for anything else.
- Kicker
- Rockford Fosgate
- Alpine
- Memphis Audio
- JL Audio
- Skar Audio
- AudioControl
- Stinger